It's amazing that as soon as you have nothing to do and no responsibilities to tend to, then all of a sudden you find it impossible to either make the time or find the motivation to do the things you actually want to be doing. For example...now that I'm home, I haven't written at all until just now as I sit to at least itemize the rest of my trip. That, of course, does it no justice at all, and I will attempt to flesh it out as much as possible, but with time go the memories and the details.
Looking through my journal in hopes of finding scraps of immediacy, I find that I also started slacking on my writing towards the end of my trip, which will undoubtedly leave this entry to be a bit lackluster. But the good news is that I returned home safely, am now on the east coast visiting family, and am looking forward to getting back out west and beginning my life again out there, this time with a new vigor and focus.
But let's take it back over the dateline for just a bit, as I fill you in on the rest of my time in New Zealand. I last left you in Rotorua, after a lovely night in the clean, comfortable, and quite pretty setting of the Funky Green Voyager, and a morning of Zorbing and costume acquisition in town. Molly and I hit the road after I insisted we have a kebab for lunch. I had eaten so many kebabs in Australia, as Christa can attest to, that I had been kebab-ed out. But now I was ready for another one, only to be disappointed by the different kebabing style of the Kiwis. More Turkish (and therefore presumably more authentic) and less trendy-street-food-alternative. The flavors felt off and the toppings were lacking. I felt that I had let Molly down. But we got over it and headed to Taupo by way of the raging Huka Falls.
Lake Taupo is the biggest lake in New Zealand, and if you're looking at a map, you can spot it as the watery hole in the middle of the North island. This was my first (and last) long haul as driver. It wasn't because of some grave misstep on my part that resulted in this being my only chance at left-sided road tripping. Molly just decided that she actually enjoyed driving on the left side, and since I was decidedly against it, our logical conclusion was that she would drive and I would navigate from now on. We stayed at the Blackcurrant Backpackers, a new establishment a little out of the center of town. Our enthusiastic and lovely hostess, Beth, hooked us up for a good price, apologized for the music (a selection of Billy Joel, Tori Amos, Jewel, and Flight of the Conchords that I, as you might imagine, actually really enjoyed), and promised us a Tim-Tam Slam lesson in the morning. She also recommended the Barbary with Captain David as the best way to see the lake and its secluded Maori rock carvings for our evening activity. So after a lovely sailing trip on the lake, complete with distance views of the mountains of Tongariro (which we were to see up close the next day), a bottle of wine, and a box of Tim-Tams, Molly and I met up with Jess (one of the girls we had met in Raglan), and also ran into 2 backpackers from Houston that we had met briefly in Rotorua. Not knowing their names, we tactfully shouted, "Hey, Houston!" as they walked by us, whereupon we more formally introduced ourselves to Braden and Kirk. We ended up running into them again on the ferry between the North and South islands.
On our way south towards Wellington, we made a detour through Tongariro National Park, home of Mt.
Ngauruhoe, the stand-in for Mt. Doom in
Lord of the Rings. The Tongariro Crossing is known to be one of the best day-hikes in the world, but clocking in at at least 7 hours, we didn't have the time or the gear for such an undertaking. We opted for a shorter, 2 hour hike to Taranaki Falls, during which we stopped at every possible moment to get a "better" shot of Mt. Doom, because surely no other view would be as great as the one at that moment. That is, until we walked 100 more meters and the view was, well, exactly the same.
We refueled with some ham and cheese toasted sandwiches with blackcurrant dipping sauce, and hit the road towards Levin. Levin (accented on the second syllable), is a small town just north of Wellington. A friend of a friend of Molly's lives there, and we were to stay the night before heading to Wellington the following morning for the rugby tournament. Brett and his girlfriend, Yvonne, were so warm and welcoming and we all went to Brett's parents' house for dinner. Merv and Cheryl own the local fish and chips shop, so even though Thursday night is usually roast night, we got treated to fish and chips and the best coleslaw I have ever tasted. And if that wasn't enough, Molly and I each got our own double air-mattress to sleep on, which after a few nights of bunk beds and sharing, was more than luxurious.
We followed Brett to Wellington the next morning, and he directed us to our destination on Dixon Street. We were going to the house of my friend's friend, Derick Tonning. Derick is from Kentucky, but moved to New Zealand a few months ago and has been living in Wellington and working as an engineer. We had some trouble finding his place, as it's at the end of the street, but then up what seemed like hundreds of stairs each time we had to climb them. There were probably closer to 50, and the view was worth it. Derick joined us for some lunch before we got dolled up in our costumes (or "fancy dress" as they say in New Zealand), and headed to the tournament. Before we got back to Derick's, however, we had one of our more disturbing encounters of our trip. Right before walking up the stairs, we noticed a small crowd of people and a man in the street lying on his back about 20 meters away. When we asked if he was okay, one of the women replied that they had just seen him jump from the building. The police arrived immediately after, which kept me from having to employ any EMT skills, and asked us all to step away. We returned to the apartment, feeling a bit shaken up. As it turns out, he did not survive, and we felt a gloomy presence each time we walked by that building.
Trying to shake this as much as we could, Mermaid Molly and I, as a Rhinestone Cowgirl, hit the streets. Molly had scored a great pair of seashells in Rotorua. Coupled with my green sarong and a flower in her long blonde hair, she was quite a vision (and, as we were soon to learn, quite a hit in the stands). Molly's familiarity with the 7's Rugby tournament is from her times having gone in San Diego, where it's quite common for women to show up in bikinis and not much else. But, it turns out that Wellington is not, in fact, SoCal, and her scantily clad torso earned her attention and a few nicknames over the course of the next couple of days. On the other hand, my big red cowboy hat, glittery red white and blue eyelashes, and gaudy American flag (complete with cheesy eagle victoriously bursting through the center) that doubled as both cape and dress at various points in the weekend, did not prove to be as big of a hit. And despite my patriotic dress, our tireless chants of "USA!" and our efforts to recruit our new Kiwi acquaintances to cheer for our guys since we cheered for theirs when they were playing, USA did pretty poorly in the tournament. NZ was expected to win, but at the end of the second day (during which we got quite tired and full and left early), England beat NZ in a huge upset to take the finals.
After an early night to bed on the second day of the tournament, Molly and I got up really early on Sunday to catch the ferry to Picton on the South Island. From there we headed to Nelson by way of the scenic Queen Charlotte Track and stayed in what seemed to be the last available bed in town. We had called every backpackers in our guidebook and finally found a double room at the Bug, a brightly decorated , VW themed place on the outskirts of Nelson. It turned out to be an excellent choice, although I guess it wasn't actually much of a choice. We had dinner at the local Mac's brewery (a beer we would get more familiar with on other parts of our trip). The next morning we drove to Abel Tasman and found our way to "The Barn, " an idyllic settling at the gate to the park. Horses and pastures surround the cozy cottage dorm and campgrounds.
After our arrival that afternoon, we hitched a ride on an aqua taxi to Bark Bay to begin the 2 hour hike back to Torrent Bay. It was a beautifully sunny day, and so the golden beaches, bright blue-green waters, and tropical cliffs were all the more radiant. I wrote this in my journal about the scene from the boat: "The line of the ocean against the mountains would require a ruler to paint it, and watercolors for the distance misty mountains, and just two simple brush strokes of white acrylic for the distant sail boat." As I said in my last entry, Bark Bay is the most beautiful beach we had ever seen, and our hike was ideal. That night we had a delicious dinner with a view, where we sampled more local wine and I got my first go at the region's famous green-lipped mussels. Back at The Barn, the porch buzzed with wine drinkers, book readers, and journal writers of all ages and many languages. We chatted for a bit with a man named Thomas whom I recognized from sitting next to us at the restaurant in Nelson the night before. He was heading to Bali later on in his travels and so I gave him the information to contact Mario in Ubud.
The next morning it rained, so we were glad to have gotten in our time in the park the day before. Molly and I had made a decision that because of our time constraints, it was best if we just headed towards the Nelson Lakes region and then on to Christchurch. We decided to forego any hopes of the west coast and ambitions to reach more southern parts of the island. As I'm sure I've said before, next time...
The Nelson Lakes region is not to be missed. We ended up spending our whole time at one lake, Lake Rotoiti, with its stunning beauty and mirror-like stillness. A friend of my sister's suggested getting to Blue Lake, but when I asked the guide how long it was to get there, he said, "Oh...um, let's see..." He stared towards the ceiling and counted somewhat audibly before turning back to us, "A 14 hour hike." Right. Maybe next time. We opted instead for a 6-pack of Mac's and an evening with the sandflies on the dock. Once we couldn't stand the flies anymore and they seemed to have had their fill of us, we decided it was our turn to eat and headed back to our lodge for yet another wonderful meal. We made sure to get some lamb since, after all, we were in New Zealand. If you haven't been, you might not know, but there are TONS of sheep. And, as it turns out, they're quite tasty and tender (my apologies to my vegetarian readers).
After a good night's sleep, some peanut butter on toast, and a couple of lattes to go, we got in an hour-long kayak on the lake before we hit the road for our last South Island stretch and drive to Christchurch. I think it is safe to say that this was one of the more stunning portions of our trip. And that's saying a lot, seeing as how at every turn so far we were seeing something more beautiful than the last. Many times on the trip I had thought about how undeniably beautiful it all was, but it also made me appreciate how much scenic beauty we have within our own country. But the wide meandering stream valley of Hanmer Forest Park on Route 7 between Springs Junction and Culverden was the first time that I felt the landscape could not be rivaled by South Dakota, Wyoming, or the Columbia River Gorge (landscapes that, until this point, I kept comparing the scenes to). It was so beautiful and untouched, that one couldn't help but be in awe. It was at times like this that it was better I wasn't driving, as I might have taken us right off the road.
We spent a rainy afternoon in Christchurch, spent too much money on some local wool products, and saw a movie. The next day we returned our rental car (our Nissan Bluebird), flew to Auckland, rented another car, and drove towards the Coromandel Peninsula in the northern part of the North Island. We spent the first night in Thames, a very small town with not much going on. We ended up watching
Whale Rider, as Molly had never seen it, and we thought that it was a fitting place for such a viewing. From Thames we drove north along the coast towards Coromandel Town, with an in-land detour on the Tapu-Coroglen road to see the square
kauri tree, then east towards Whitianga (pronounced, Fit-ee-an-ga).
Since the point of ending our trip up on Coromandel was so that Molly could fit in some beach time and return home with at least a healthy glow, we spent the afternoon at beautiful Cooks Beach. We grabbed dinner at the local sports bar, where some local gents bought us some drinks and wanted to know how we were enjoying their town, and the next morning drove to nearby Hahei (which I repeatedly pronounced, "Ha-heyyyy.") Much to Molly's dismay, the rain had started and was not letting up. But we braved the drizzle for a pleasant, yet a little muddy, hike to
Cathedral Cove. It was a nice way to spend our Valentine's Day. We took our books to the beach there, but when the rain started up again, we took shelter in the cove itself, lamented a dead penguin, then decided that we wouldn't melt, and hiked the 45 minutes back to the car.
We relaxed in the bunk room for awhile, then at low-tide we headed to Hot Water Beach. A short drive from Hahei is a beach that, at low-tide, you can dig a hole to reveal scalding hot water just a few inches below the sand. Hordes of people, including daily tour-buses, flock to this beach with their shovels, and sit in the naturally heated waters. It's best to let a little of the ocean water mix in so as not to cook your skin. Molly and I agreed to save our $5 on renting a shovel and join in someone else's hole, but upon arrival we found much more amusement in observing the strange human behavior than to partake ourselves. We got over it all pretty quickly, and headed back to our backpackers to clean up and go out to dinner.
At the restaurant down the street, a woman named Geniene introduced herself to us. She recognized us from the hostel and wondered if she could join us for dinner. A nurse from Canada, Geniene was a lovely addition to our Hallmark holiday. After we ate, we went to the bottle shop to get a bottle of wine. We soon decided that three would be more appropriate. We took them back to the picnic table out back and started celebrating our single-ness. A lovely couple (he from Australia, she from New Zealand) joined us and we proceeded to have a rather enjoyable evening which only took a turn for the worst when we ran out of wine and decided that screwdrivers would suffice. Bad idea.
The next morning, with a little less spring in our step than in mornings before, we packed up, gave Geniene a ride to Auckland, and managed to return our car and make it to our flights in time for the long trip home. Molly and I ended up having a hasty goodbye as we were running a bit late, then she was off to LA and I to San Francisco.
I think that's just about it. Fortunately I have no exciting tales of missed connections and cranky airline personnel like during my Christmas travels. Now I'm back East for a few weeks and will be in Portland March 11 to start the next leg of the journey of my life. I'm reading a book right now called Super In The City by Daphne Uviller, a friend of my step-dad's. My mom passed the book on to me but assured me she was not trying to send me any messages by suggesting this delightful read. But as I rode in the back seat of her car today, I read a passage that, as you will see, hit a little too close to home, thus prompting me to question her motive for giving me the book. So I will leave you with this passage for now, hoping you will find it as amusing as I did. The biggest difference between me and the character in the book, besides our 2 year age difference, is that she has taken more standardized tests than I have.
I will try to get into writing more frequently as I discover interesting things stateside, like the irony of not being able to take pictures at the ICA's Shepard Fairey exhibit (of iconic Obama HOPE poster fame).
From Super In The City by Daphne Uviller:
Yes. I am twenty-seven and I have a B.A. worth a hundred grand and I dropped out of medical school and I biffed on law school and my friends are all prematurely successful in their worthwhile, absorbing careers, and I am frightening my parents and maybe even myself with my aimlessness.
But I would go a different route. I would be the person who cheerfully went with the flow, who didn't just make lemonade out of lemons, but who invented a new kind of lemonade and not only won the ribbon for her nectar at the county fair, but licensed it to the U.S. government so that it became the only drink NASA would stock aboard their shuttles. I would create a beverage worthy of a moon landing.